Sunday, April 23, 2006

Copacabana - Bolivia

On Friday morning we left Puno to go to Copacabana about three hours by bus in Bolivia. Despite warnings that crossing the border could be tricky it all went smoothly. We had to get off the bus in Peru and go through immigration (small little room with a man sitting at a desk) and then walk a few hundred metres through the gate and into Bolivia an go through their little immigration with another man at a desk. It was then a short trip more on the bus when we arrived at Copacabana. My first impression was the buildings are so colourful and then you the lake and huge mountains surrunding the town and it makes a pretty great sight. Parts of the town itself are quite dirty and dusty but it all adds to the character and charm. I never imagined a little town on a lake could be so interesting, but it is. On that firs t day after arriving i dumped my bags and then climbed the mountain next to the town. It was a strenuous climb (you end up at 4000m at the top) but so worth it because i could see out over the lake and to islands and mountains beyond. Also, the lake itslef is so still and flat. The body of water looks so big that you keep thinking you are out over an ocean but then there are no waves and it is calm. I stayed at the top of the moutain for quite a while just enjoying the stunning view and perfect blue sky sunshine. Explored the backstreets for a while and encountered lots of pigs lying about the place as well as some really scary chicken gangs. Before sunset met with others from the group and i climbed the moutain again in time for sunset. This sunset was so beautiful. I sat on a rock on top of the huge hill and watched as the glistening ryas of light on the water got smaller and the wobbling ball of sushine slowly descended behind the darkened moutains in the far distance. Then climbed back down in the twilight with bluish orange sky on one side and starlit sky on the other.

Just when i thought that was my best day yet, i had an even better day the next day. I got up at 6.30 (from the top the whole lake was pink in the morning light) and went with Stephen and Ross for a day trip to the Island del Sol (Island of the Sun). The ferry ride was 2 hours long but that in itself was so spectacular. Once again it was a clear blue sunny day andi sat on the edge of the boat watching the different mountains and cliffs as we very slowly putted by. Then about an hour into the trip, unexpectedy, we past some more mountains and as we passed then end of them a huge mountain range came into view across the lake in the distance and it was totally white and covered with snow. From there the mountains were visible for the rest of the trip. No wonder it was cold though as the wind must have been blowing straight off the snow and over the lake. The boat took us to the north side of the island from where we intended to walk the length of the island. It took us the whole day and was one of the most straining but spectacular walks ive done. The actual distance was about 9km but felt longer because there were so many massively steep hills and they just kept coming. At the northern port we walked a bit further north and saw some old Inca sites, one where they used to sacrifice virigns on the edge of a cliff. The landscape was very interesting - the northern end of the island and most of the interior was extremely arid and very few trees. This is a strange constrast to being in such a big body of water and looking out to endless water and green islands in the distance. All along tyhe way we came across stone forts and buildings. At the early part of the walk we walked across a long white sand beach where it met the lake the water was turquoise. As we left the beach and walked up higher and looked down and also across we could see both an almost tropical looking beach, backed by massive snow-covered mountains. Once again it was a very strange constrast - one of those things that reminds you that you are somewhere totally different! The landscape continued to change as we gradually passed terraced hillsides, corn fields, lush grassy areas, forests of gum trees and eventually the southern port itself perched on hillside with a misture of mud-brick huts and small rendered houses with stone paths that wind their way down to the wharf where the boats and tourists are waiting. I got back on the boat exhausted but so happy with the day and sat and soaked up the last of the afternoon sun and watched the same view in reverse. The whole boat trip reminded very much of the Bay of Islands in NZ. I had a great early dinner with Emily and Naomi - we found this rooftop terrace restaurant place and had a really hearty meal and watched the sunset over the lake and the bright twinkling come out.

This morning we didnt leae Copacabana until lunchtime so i had time to wander around and look in the markets and walk down and do some sketching by the water. I had an early morning breakfast while people were still sleeping and enjoyed the quiet early morning and yet more sunshine. Copacabana was definitley more than i expected and i had some of the best days there of the trip so far. We arrived back in Puno a few hours ago. I need to buy some supplies for Amantani Island as we leave tomorrow morning. The ferry ride will be 4 hours and we will meet our host families when we get there. Once i am there i will not have internet access for 20 days...but i am sure i shall write all about it when i get back. Bye for now!!!

1 comment:

tigtog said...

Oh, this reminds me so much of my honeymoon, part of which was spent in South America nearly 15 years ago now. I didn't spend as much time in Copacabana as you did ( I envy you the Isla del Sol) but we did go to the church of the Virgin. What an amazing place for one like me with a strong anthropological fascination with religion - the statue of the Virgin is endowed with huge donations and her costume is changed weekly, and is jewel-encrusted for the major church festivals.

It's strange to think that Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro is named for this small lakeside town in Bolivia.